4.16.2023

3.23.2023-3.24.2023. Day 1. Paddlers Coffee + Yoyogi Park + Sushi Masashi + &t Cafe Omotesandō. Shibuya. Tokyo. Japan.

Welcome to my third ever Japan adventure! This trip was supposed to happen back in 2020 also for the cherry blossoms. The world had a time out and I had to postpone. This is actually the first time I have gone out of the country since 2019. It's been interesting to see what all have changed in Japan this time around. The last time I was in Japan was for fall folliage in 2018. For me seeing the cherry blossoms in full bloom in Japan is the most beautiful thing I have ever witnessed. If I am able to return annually to see this, I would. And I am one that does not like to repeat travel to places generally, so it would have to be extra special for me to even consider it. The star of the show are the cherry blossoms for this trip; everything else was bonus.

Here are some top tips for your Japan adventures:

The culture of Japan centers around the concept of mindfulness.

As with many other places, you are traveling to a foreign country, most people will not speak your language, especially in Japan. Google Translate is your friend. I use this to translate menus and other things constantly when I travel. As Japan is extremely keen on their etiquette (written and unwritten), it will be a much better experience for you if you brushed up a lot on all this ahead of time. I am able to get around and get help easily while there as I do speak a little Japanese and am extremely familiar with the Japanese culture. It makes a world of difference.

Always have the address in Japanese and go by the address off the website/reservation rather than the one in Google Maps. Pay special attention as to which building it actually is in and see if there is a different entrance to the side.

Fly into Haneda instead of Narita as it's a lot closer to Tokyo. It costed us more than $300 for a taxi from Narita to Tokyo back in 2016, so I am sure it's even more now. So unless you feel confident that you can navigate the Japanese train system with all your luggage after a long flight, I would avoid flying into or out of Narita altogether.

Have plenty of cash on you. Most places that are local will be cash only. Like most places worldwide, Japan is cash centric. I like to take out a bunch via my bank ahead of my travels. If I need to take out additional cash there, I will do it at a 7-11. Some credit cards are not accepted in foreign countries, be sure to check before your travels.

Speaking of 7-11, you need to override any preconception of convenience stores you have when in Japan. The food and drinks at 7-11, Lawson, Family Mart, etc. are more than decent. They are also affordable if you are on a budget. Each one is famous for a different type of food. Trust me on this.

Most places require reservations now. I found this to be both good and bad. Good because I am able to reserve for places that previously only accepted walk-ins with huge queues. Bad because I like to wing it when traveling and this minimizes the possibilities of that, especially for the great places. For any SERIOUS reservations, even Visa Infinite Concierge and Amex Concierge will get you very little as a foreigner. It is best to use a local Japan paid concierge service instead. Please bear in mind that once you make a reservation, you are required to keep it with a 50%-100% cancellation fee charged to your card in addition to getting blacklisted for future reservations. If you make changes in terms of time or number in your party, that will require a cancellation and a new resrevation. It is also considered bad etiquette to ask a venue for their cancellation policy. Please reserve carefully and plan well ahead of requesting any reservations. Give yourself plenty of time to arrive ahead of time, as you cannot be late.

For walk-in places with a queue, check to see if you need to put your name down first before lining up. Never cut in line of any queue, as it's not allowed. Anywhere good will have a long queue, in Tokyo, a 3+ hour queue is typical for any great place. I would recommend going early before they open for first seating at those. And only pick those places that you MUST try. Tokyo has the longest queues out of everywhere I have ever been to, with many resembling a new Apple product launch.

It is considered rude to not finish all your food. 

There is a serious need for speed to finish eating quickly to turn over your seat for the next customers. Most places in Japan are tiny, so please do not linger. Eat and pay quickly to converse outside to be courteous to the restaurant.

It is required that each person order at least one item if you are all sitting at a table. Some places may have more requirements in addition, so please read all the signage outside the door, on the door, at your table, and on the menu. 

No tipping for anything.

Dress well and appropriately. Japan overall, and Tokyo in particular is one of the most fashion forward places I have ever been to, and I go to New York and Europe during fashion week. Japan overall is a conservative country, so please avoid any clothing that shows too much skin (midrifts, and chest) and please do not wear leggings/yoga pants as bottoms. You should not be wearing those as a part of your outfit to begin with so I am not even sure why I had to type that out... If you wear a v neck t shirt people will be staring at your chest, even in Tokyo. Truly.

Do not walk and eat. You eat the food item where you buy it and dispose of the trash there before moving on.

Take your trash with you, as there are little trash bins all over Japan. It is an extremely clean and orderly country. That is also why you need to eat your food items and dispose of the trash at the vendor before going on about your day.

Trains would be best for getting around, unless you are walking. Taxis are great if you can get one. It's more difficult to get a taxi to a windy residential neighborhood and Uber does not work well in Japan. So if you need a taxi with your luggage, you will want to give yourself plenty of time in advance and have someone that speaks Japanese call on your behalf.

Pay attention to which side of the stairs you are to be on. It changes from city to city as well. Please be sure to pay attention as to where you are to walk up or stand on escalators so you are not in the way of others.

Do not bring any CBD items as Japan has a 0% THC policy. Most CBD products here have less than 0.03% THC, which is not allowed in Japan. Furthermore, having any THC is a severe legal offence in Japan. You do not want to be caught with it there, even if it's skincare, sleep gummies or pain relief.

Use your indoor library voices and turn your ringers off on your devices. You are not supposed to talk on your phone in public and there are booths you are to go into for private conversations. This goes for indoors and outdoors.

You will need to take off your shoes in many places. Any restaurant that have tatami mats and wooden platforms will require shoes off. Any homes indoors will require shoes off, and any temples as well. The general rule is that there is a step to denote where your shoes should not touch. If there is no shelf for you to leave your shoes on, there is typically plastic bags for you to put them in to take with you as you go inside, or you can line them up neatly on the ground before you go onto the steps. In fact, at schools, you have outdoors shoes to get to school and you are required to change into indoor shoes so you do not dirty the floors inside.

You do not bathe to clean yourself in the tub. You shower and wash your hair first, then you soak in the tub for relaxation. It is not unusual to share bath water in the tub as everyone should be clean already. This mimicks the onsen culture of Japan. Please do not have your hair in the water, especially in an onsen.

Do not blow your nose in public. This is a huge faux pas.

Put your cash or credit card in the tray when paying for items. Do not hand the cash/credit card directly to the vendor.

Take everything given to you with both hands to show respect.  Followed with a bow.

Bow at least 30° to show respect to those you are not close to. 45° to anyone important.

If you speak a little Japanese, please use honorifics when addressing anyone you are not close to. It would be considered impolite. 

The Japanese does not say no. If they say maybe, that's a no. If they did not answer, that is probable that is also a no. But if you are asking for something and they don't have it then they will cross their arms with an X to let you know they don't have it. Same goes for taxis and such if they make an X, it means they are not available.

If you have tattoos, you are not allowed in onsens, gyms, pools, and beaches. If they allow it at all, it would be extremely obvious via their website. This is extremely offensive in most places in Japan, so please be mindful. 

If you are there to enjoy the cherry blossoms, please do not shake them off the branches prematurely. This is an unwritten rule in Japan.

The list goes on and on with so many unwritten rules I am not aware of. I am British, and I tend to use my etiquette that is one level down from dealing with dignitaries when I am in Japan. Just be polite and respectful and you will do fine.

Now, the trip itself!

I stayed in a charming area of Shibuya this time around. I love being walking distance to Harajuku and Omotesandō. It was in a cute quiet neighborhood in the midst of bustling Shibuya. I loved my neighborhood as there were many cute shops and cafes in all directions. My friend and I loved exploring within our neighborhood each day on the way out and on the way back. It rained most of the time In Tokyo, but that made for dramatic reflections for photos. Thankfully, it did not make the petals of the cherry blossoms fall off earlier than usual.

I do want to call out that Japanese places tend to be much smaller by most other people's standards. My 400 square feet studio apartment would be considered spacious in Japan. We got a place that was 2 bedroom that was the size of my studio apartment here in San Francisco, and I, being petite, found it to be tight. It was supposed to fit 4, but it would be incredibly tricky. The only way we were able to make this work was because there were only 2 of us and we each used the other bed to put our luggage on.







We found this neighborhood soba place to have dinner at before exploring more.

Mongenbo
11-17 Kamiyamacho
Shibuya City, Tokyo 150-0047
Japan
+81 3-5478-1157



Then we walked all the way to Shibuya crossing and I showed my friend the expensive fruit that is sold all over Japan. Yes truly, melons at upwards of $100+, strawberries can be $10+ each, and mangos are $60+ and can be closer to $100 pending the mango. Only in Japan!





When we woke up, my friend found Paddlers Coffee in our neighborhood, so I went to meet up with her there. Hilariously, they serve Stumptown. Look at that majestic tree! Loved its vibe, space and outdoor area. We went back another time on a rainy day as we were heading out on our day as well again.

Paddlers Coffee
2 Chome-26-5 Nishihara
Shibuya City, Tokyo 151-0066
Japan
+81 3-5738-7281











Then we walked across Yoyogi Park toward Harajuku, where cherry blossoms were in full bloom and there was the most well kept garden. You can see all the videos in my Instagram Highlight here under Japan 2023.









Thankfully we went earlier to Sushi Masashi as it was slightly difficult to find, as the entrance is off to the side so it took a bit of detectiving before finding the correct entrance. My friend I was traveling with has never been to Japan before other than a short layover on her way to Thailand. Given that I had suggested to her that she should have high end sushi as we get nothing close State side. That was how we ended up with this reservation at Sushi Masashi. If you are going to do sushi at one of these, you will absolutely need a reservation well in advance. Please refrain from wearing any perfume/cologne as these are tight spaces at a counter and scent greatly affects taste, so you would be ruining the palates of those in the room. Sushi Masashi has a gorgeous interior with refined wood working. The omakase is a large mix of nigiri with cooked items to keep you guessing with its modern Edomae sushi. Chef Masashi Yamaguchi was warm and welcoming. If you cannot afford a high end omakase, there are plenty of affordable sushi all over Tokyo for you to try. I would highly recommend it as the quality of fish is well beyond what you would get in most places, so be sure to try some. Nigiri is difficult to capture beautifully, and especially when you are in a rush to eat it quickly (within seconds of serving to preserve the temperature); hence the lack of the entire menu for this omakase.

Sushi Masashi
5F, 2-12-27 Kitaaoyama
Minato-ku, Tokyo, 107-0061
Japan























After our omakase, we wandered around all over Harajuku to explore and to burn off lunch. Harajuku is one of my favorite neighborhoods in Tokyo for people watching. You have the super stylish in addition to ultra high end as it's next to Omotesandō for an incredible mix. Then we followed this adorable drawing and stumbled upon the hidden gem &t Cafe to rest for a bit before heading home. It was super unexpected to come upon this oasis off to the side in Harajuku. I love finding these magical spaces while traveling.

&t Cafe Omotesandō
〒150-0001 Tokyo
Shibuya City, Jingumae
4 Chome−22−18 LEAF表参道 1F
Japan
+81 3-6447-0980











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