Chef Ge is from Shanghai China, and he had created his own fusion of Japanese-Chinese cuisine of Shin-Ōkubo (新大久保) in Tokyo working for a yakuza boss during the 90s. Somewhere along his culinary journey, he also started combining it with French techniques to create his own version of Chinese fine dining that he has brought us at Fù Huì Huá 馥薈華. Like many culinary staples in San Francisco, Fù Huì Huá 馥薈華 started as a pop up in Japantown. Lucky for us, that it now has its own brick and motar where you can try your luck at your own Hunger Games. The space was redone by the father and son chef duo and the restaurant itself is run by 4 members of the Ge family. Additionally, they insist on weekly drops for their reservations as they like to see what is available at the farmer's market each week to decided if the ingredients are up to par with their weekly menu. This allows them both flexibility with produce availabilities in addition to their individual availabilities.
As a gourmand from Hong Kong, I have only had 1 fine dining in Chinese cuisine. It was 3 Michelin starred Lung King Heen (they have since lost a star). I am a regular at Mister Jiu's here in San Francisco as I am a friend of Brandon Jew and that is one of my go tos when I have VIPs in town. What Bradon has done for elevated traditional Chinese cuisine in America is undeniable. I have also had enough premium kaiseki and fine dining in Tokyo, Kyoto and Paris to understand what Chef Ge is trying to convey with his unique cooking.
Fù Huì Huá 馥薈華 is a non descriptor space on 24th Street in the Mission. Upon entry, it is similar to your traditional Japanese fine dining establishments with counter seating of 8 with view of the front kitchen. I arrived early so I was able to get the seat on the far left for the best view of the entire kitchen. I reviewed the 16 course menu placed in front of me and didn't know what to expect. Just that something unlike anything I have tasted is about to happen.
I can confirm that all the accolades and raving reviews are accurate. Some courses were stand outs and all 16 were exquisite and made with such care and time consuming technique, a rarity for what people's preconception of Chinese cuisine. I would argue that this was even better than Lung King Heen in their 3 Michelin star days by a margin. The Porridge was made with such clarity that I have tasted something similar just once in my lifetime in China. The Drinken Shrimp and Money Bag were stand outs in the third course. Shirako (milt, sperm of fish), one of my no gos whenever I go to Japan, was the Tofu course. It tasted like the most decadent silken tofu the way it was prepared. The Mock Crab, aka rival crab, was an imperial court dish created for Empress Dowager Cixi who requested crab while it was not available. This rival crab is made with egg whites to mimic the texture and flavor of crab. Abalone in Broth was such a lightness packed with umami, thanks to some help from the panda pig. The fish in the Fermented Soup was exceptional. The tomato juice as Palate Cleanser was perfection and created from different varieties of tomato. The Radish, a star of the show. The 2 types of duck was exactly what I wanted to close out the main course. The three types of Glutinous Rice Balls in sesame, peanut and almond was a great way to round out the meal in a gentle osmanthus broth.
If you feel like getting yourself a good culinary adventure and have perseverance, I would HIGHLY recommend you trying for your Fù Huì Huá 馥薈華 reservation. They drop each Friday night at 8M PST on Tock. May the odds be ever in your favor!
Weirdly, the other 6 guests were mostly on their phones almost the entire time at the restaurant, which really took away from the ambience of a fine dining experience. As did some of the ultra casual outfits, which is one of the regular grievances from many chefs I know. Athleisure to fine dining while on your phone the entire time. Hmmmmmm.
Winter's Depth Spring, Approaches
Porridge
Hollow Spring Roll
Money Bag | Belt Fish | Cold Noodles | Drunken Shrimp | Zao Lu
Tofu with Scallion Oil
Wonton
Mock Crab
Abalone in Broth
Yellow Eel
Fermented Soup
Palate Cleanser
Radish
Geoduck
Duck with Braised Sauce
Winter-Spring Rice
Glutinous Rice Balls
Chilled
Dry-cured panda pig

Winter's Depth Spring, Approaches
Porridge
Hollow Spring Roll
Money Bag | Belt Fish | Cold Noodles | Drunken Shrimp | Zao Lu
Tofu with Scallion Oil
Wonton
Mock Crab
Abalone in Broth
Yellow Eel
Fermented Soup
Palate Cleanser
Radish
Geoduck
Duck with Braised Sauce
Winter-Spring Rice
Glutinous Rice Balls
Chilled
Dry-cured panda pig
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