That was where I met Sheng from Beijing who dresses in traditional Chinese garbs when traveling.
I was en route to Jōnangū Shrine when I ran into Sheng again and she decided to join me for my adventure. Jōnangū is more out of the way and it has an amazing garden filled with plum and peach blossoms. If you are there during Ume season, be sure to go there as it's magical. I had just missed it, but the garden was still stunning with everything else blossoming and and their ponds filled with koi.
Afterwards, we returned to Gion and I showed Sheng a few of my favorite things there in addition to blowing her mind with Gion Kitagawa Hanbee. Then I left her to check out Maruyama Park while I made my way toward Philosopher's Path at sunset before dinner.
Now, the finale. As I was finalizing my reservations for Kyoto, it was a short list—many impossible and a few ichigen-san okotowaris. Ichigen-san okotowari is a reservation that can only be made by introduction and through regulars; therefore, the most difficult reservations in Japan. Somehow I found myself at Farmoon for my final dinner in Kyoto, which turned out to be one of the most magical dinners I have ever had in my life through my thousands of meals around the world.
Upon my arrival and peaking through the glass door, I understood the magical world of Masayo Funakoshi immediately. While I had done some digging ahead of time, I decided to go into this dinner blind to immerse myself in this experience without expectations. As I was invited through the door and seated at the counter, Chef Funakoshi welcomed me and complimented me on my dress. I knew I would like her already based on the slight twinkle in her eyes and her welcoming space. Farmoon felt like Japandi rustic perfection, filled with well loved and curated objects and people; it is a dreamy excursion you stumble upon and you never want it to end.
Upon seating, we were given a hot towel scented by scent artist Izumi Kan. To call him a perfumer would be an insult to his craft. In fact, I lamented this was my last night in Japan and could not secure a bottle for myself. This scent palette opener was followed by a shot of hinoki water. I jokingly said to Chef Funakoshi, "Let me guess, this is made by a friend who does this as a hobby?" She laughed as I was right on the money. Never in my life, through thousands of meals, have I gotten goosebumps from a flavor. That is, until this hinoki water. I looked up at Chef Funakoshi, with sparkles in my eyes and a smirk, "I have high expectations of this dinner after that scented towel and hinoki water." She laughed, "No pressure!"
The menu changes pending what was available and at what stage the ingredient may be at the restaurant. Each course was as interesting as it was made with utmost care. You felt it in every bite and every dish placed in front of you. It felt like you were invited to Chef Funakoshi's very rustic and comfortable home for a meal. All the ingredients felt specially foraged just for you. Since Chef Funakoshi studied cooking in New York before making her way around the world to round out her training, the meal is a true blend of all her experiences while utilizing local produce. You can see how she utilizes her skills in cooking and art to become a true culinary artist in every sense—by making each dinner an experience and connecting the diners with nature in her space effortlessly.
While seemingly effortless in how she crafts each meal, one can easily see the mountain of preparation and care required for this experience. I thanked and congratulated Chef Funakoshi profusely at the end of this meal in Japanese. I truly hope that I will have more meals like this in my life time, and I hope that you, too, will get to experience something just as magical for yourself soon.
The next morning, after I packed to get ready to head home, I walked up Ninenzaka for the last time and got my last hojicha soft serve and bought some hojicha cookies to bring home. Note to self: buy more next time.
Then it was time for me to make my journey to Osaka to fly home. I typically like to leave plenty early as you never know how long the lines are at the airport. Also, the food options are exceptional. I ended up having my last meal at Kansai at Mensho. Naturally, I got the premium wagyu ramen. I did a 2 day fast when I got home!
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